This isn’t really my home Coast, I grew up with The stretch from Mundesley in the middle, awareness stretching from Sheringham to Winterton, the bits beyond were different, Great Yarmouth to the South was the stuff of fevered dreams and slot machines, impossible hoop throwing games and bumper cars, if you were lucky finished off with a candy floss, it was cheap and tawdry, past its best and brilliant when you were seven or eight, and still is in my opinion; despite the problems that a lack of investment and the disassociation of the towers of London which give little to such seasonally shadowed places where the work runs out at the end of the summer and the mainstay industries, the silver darlings have long fled.
The other way, this north coast was different, past the Victoriana of Cromer and Sheringham the coast changes fast; Weybourne, Kelling, Salthouse and over towards Wells, the beaches stopped being all about sand and erosion and started being shingle and deposition. We went up up there occasionally – usually crabbing forays, my mum and her friend June, and me and Jez. With a couple of old brewing buckets, a wooden reel, twine, hook and a bag of bacon offcuts, trying to fill the bucket with small green crabs could easily see the death of a day. Our mums sitting outside a cafe nearby smoking endless No6 and chewing the fat out of the afternoon. The only forays to Morston and Blakeney were usually with school, out in a boat, a cold sweat in a cagoule, the spray off the bow of the seal boats stiffening your skin and hair, salting your lips, watching the fat sea dogs watching us from the shingle spit.
That spit, harbours bird species, you tread carefully should you walk, nesting in the stones, Sandwich and Arctic Terns, Oyster catchers. There land here has grown like a tumour over the coastline, it’s lengthening along with reclamation of the marshes silted the River Glaven leaving villages with a dry river and no trade in an area which once had so much. There are villages in the river valley with still visible anchorage and harbouring, only now its in a field.
The salt marsh and estuary provide nice weekend walks, the salt marsh villages remembered from the past have partially changed ownership, the tired fisherman’s gaffs, now Farrowed and Balled, car parks sometimes clogged with Range Rovers and assorted London and Home Counties plated 4x4s. Two or Three hundred years ago the area was famed for its trade in illicit gin and tobacco coming in off the beach in small boats, Coastguards weren’t looking out for people floating out on lilos, they were after the illicit trade in fish and alcohol. Now the second-home owners are here, mingled with the locals that can afford the escalating house prices in this little bit of once lost now on-trend Norfolk. They feast locally, it is a good area for produce and food, although silting is destroying the local Mussel trade. You can see the incomers on the muddy paths, hyper country cartoon dress; expensive flat-caps, Hunter and gilet men, faithful Retrievers and soft-mouthed Spaniels bouncing off the lead, their female counterparts picking their cashmere way through the post flood paths in fashionable but leaky boots, the talk is expensive, being back in London after the weekend away, meetings and closing that derivatives deal, ‘it will be great Giles, we’ll make a packet,’ things may have changed But the pirates are still here.
Just brilliant Nick. I can see the Boden gilets & pristine Hunter wellies in the gastropub…
Hello, I am Norfolk born and bred as we say. I came across your blog by chance whilst searching for the tide times for a particular part of Norfolk. I’ve been a beach dog walker for many years and have thoroughly enjoyed your photos and beautiful words here. The comments re the second home owners are so apt. Kindest regards, Zoë
I was incredibly fortunate to have boarded with a woman in Norwich in 1980 while doing some research on a history dissertation in medieval history at the UEA (East Anglia as an example of Edward IV’s innovative tactic of creating an administration of loyal people who possessed real power in the regions from which they took their titles–like the Mowbray, Howard, Rivers and de la Pole families here). Mrs. Weston spent the war years in the Cromer, Sheringham area and later lived in Morston (the “manor house”), but when I met her she lived out the outskirts of Norwich where she took in a few boarders at a time. Mrs. Weston really didn’t like people (all “skalliwags” [sp]) but she LOVED nature. She made it a point of hers to repay “the nice Americans” (apparently she was left with a favorable impression from all of the American military personnel and their families stationed in Norfolk during the war) by taking me on daily field trips out into nature. Many of the places you photograph–especially the beaches–I was privilege to visit.
I stumbled upon your photo diary because of my interest in following up on my image of the air-field-dominated county in World War II–of which you have posted a map. I couldn’t help myself in following through into your military engineering- and childhood-inspired collection of photos and their accompanying stories and information. Thank you! I have enjoyed and learned from every one. My five months spent in Norfolk with Mrs. Weston were among the three or four most inspiring, educational, and transformative periods of my life–much of which is due to the spectacular scenery, people, and history of your part of the world.
Sincerely,
Drew Fisher
Second Cloud on the Left
La Farge, Wisconsin